Stihl MS 880

[JDGTreeService]

Hello,

I am a small-time tree service professional looking to expand my business and my capabilities to take on bigger jobs. Today I went on an estimate to take down two giant cottonwood trees with massive bases and it became quite obvious that I would need an extremely heavy-duty saw to take on a base so large. Can anyone give me any information on the Stihl MS 880 and if it worth the investment? Where can I buy one for a good price? And are there any other saw (maybe a bit less expensive) that will do the job of cutting through a base that is probably 8 feet in diameter?

Thanks

[BostonBull]

Welcome to the forum!

An 880 is a beast of a saw that will most likely sit more than it is used. I would suggest checking out a 660. It is loads cheaper, and will pull a 36" bar. Thats just shy of you trees DBH, but maybe the measurement was off? I think you would get a lot more practical use out of a saw in the 90cc range than 120cc range.

The 880 is however the largest saw currently made the Husqvarna 3120 is a touch cheaper and a touch smaller. The 3120 also has a rev limiting coil in it which some guys do not favor.

Where are you located? Maybe one of our members could loan/rent you an 880 if it is absolutely necessary.

[JDGTreeService]

Thank you for the suggestions. I am located in Bountiful, Utah and I would love to see if I can borrow a larger saw for this particular job as I believe you are correct that the 880 would end up sitting in my storage shed for 11 and 1/2 months out of the year. I own an MS 390 and with a 20" bar and with the size of jobs that I normally take on, that length is usually plenty. There are also many other logistical factors that play into this job that I may need some other professional assistance for from other guys in the business. I have only been climbing for 3 years and have used nothing more than a harness, scare strap and gaffs. This may be something a bit more technical than what I can take on by myself at this point.

[JDGTreeService]

Yes, I mostly do removals with this set-up, but I also do trim-outs as well. I am guessing that you are, perhaps, referring to the gaffs and the fact that they can be harmful to trees that I am not taking down? I will admit that I run a small-time business at this point in time but I believe that everyone needs to start somewhere. I would love to get myself more training, more certifications, more schooling and more experience. Perhaps you might enlighten me on the best (and most cost-effective) way to become an ISA Certified Aborist? I am sincerely very interested and passionate about this line and work and joined this forum for any feedback and insights that might assist me in going down this career path.

[BostonBull]

I would start off by taking some classes through Arbormaster or North American Training solutions. Pick up some books by Alex Shigo, and the ISA study guide. And most importantly stop spiking trees that arent being removed! Learn to properly climb.

The first book you should pick up is the tree climbers companion. GREAT resource for new climbers. Also look into Gerry Berenaks fundamentals of General Tree Work, widely regarded as the bible.

The only way, unfortunately, to get ISA certified is pay to play. It is quite expensive but worth it.

[JDGTreeService]

Thanks for the suggestions, those resources sound like a great place to start. I do leave the gaffs out of the picture when I'm climbing trees just to trim them, but I am humble enough to admit that I have a lot still to learn about climbing. Any way to become certified on my own without schooling? Or would I pretty much have to have three years of college-level classes in arboriculture? Where does the expense come into play? Just with schooling or with exams, etc.

[BostonBull]

Yes! I am self taught and certified on my own. In Massachusetts we have a state level certification program (Oldest in the USA) and widely regarded as the toughtest CA exam in the country. Get the ISA study guide at the least, see if your state offers a test as well? Look into the other classes, and start from the ground up, beginner/basic. They range from $300-$1000 per class depending on the material taught and location.

Good Luck!

[rskybizintrees]

Originally Posted by BostonBull

I would start off by taking some classes through Arbormaster or North American Training solutions. Pick up some books by Alex Shigo, and the ISA study guide. And most importantly stop spiking trees that arent being removed! Learn to properly climb.

The first book you should pick up is the tree climbers companion. GREAT resource for new climbers. Also look into Gerry Berenaks fundamentals of General Tree Work, widely regarded as the bible.

The only way, unfortunately, to get ISA certified is pay to play. It is quite expensive but worth it.

Boston Bull sound advice it all starts with education, Berenaks fundamentals is one I wish I had picked up sooner. And agree that ISA is pay to play, but as the industry and regs get established it is a wise investment and the continuing ed is easy to keep up with. IMO

[hawkinstree]

A MS 880 I would personally recommend only for the seasoned professional. The cutting power is tremendous. We use many for timber falling while cutting old growth or large second growth where power is a must. For an occasional 8 ft tree, a Stihl MS 660 works very well. MS 660 will run a 42 inch bar nicely. be sure to use a 7 tooth drive sprocket. This gives you more torque. I fell huge timber for years with a Stihl 066 magnum, now known as Stihl MS 660. Very good saw. One of the best power to weight ratio's. MS 660 will run bar lengths 20" to 42" making it quite versatile.

[treespec]

I have just rebuilt my 10 yr. old 066 w/a .056 piston. It pulls a 43" bar w/tons of torque.